Long Range Wi-Fi Booster Installation (Ubiquiti Bullet M2 Titanium and airGateway Combo)

Staying connected on the road is important to us, not just streaming movies or music and browsing the internet but also keeping in touch with friends and families. To make use of free public Wi-Fi's (campgrounds, public parks, Mickey-D's and other business with free Wi-Fi) a Wi-Fi booster is needed for better and reliable connection especially over long distances. Our home internet provider also provides their customers many free Wi-Fi locations and in most cases, their hotspots are fast enough for video streaming.

Quieting the Water Pump and Freeing up Space for Storage under the Passenger Ottoman

 The factory installed water pump is located under the passenger side ottoman and it solely occupies that area. To create a space for extra storage, the water pump was relocated and mounted vertically into the wall facing the bathroom. I fabricated an acrylic enclosure for the water pump that can be easily removed by unscrewing few screws. I like the clear acrylic enclosure so I can easily see any leaks that would develop around the pump or the fittings. 

weBoost Drive 4G-X Cell Phone Booster Installation

 

When on the road, traveling and touring, it is always important for us to have good cell reception. An RV breakdown or an emergency in the middle of nowhere without any means of calling for help is a scary thought, but of course a cell booster will not help you in every situation- as the name implies “cell booster” means it needs an existing cell signal to boost. Sometimes a cell signal is too weak or cell tower is too distant for your cellphone to connect, this is when the booster helps. The weBoost Drive 4G-X can simultaneously boost voice and data, so you can make calls and browse the internet at the same time if your network supports it.

300 watt Solar Panel Upgrade and AC/DC Compressor Fridge Upgrade

 



I recently replaced our 3-way Dometic fridge to an AC/DC compressor fridge which I should have done long time ago, no more scrambling for a leveled parking spot with the new fridge. The compressor type fridge is also consistent in keeping the set temperature and cools way faster than the Dometic 3-way fridge. The only thing I like about the 3-way fridge is it uses minuscule amount of DC power when operating on propane, a big plus when boondocking.

I went with Norcold DE0788 as it was locally available, saving me shipping fees and long wait. At first, I was contemplating of getting the Nova-Kool with the proven Danfoss compressor, but I really did not like the mounting location of its compressor and electronics. The Nova-Kool compressor/ electronics are mounted on the bottom rear of the fridge; this location is prone to getting wet from water/rain intrusion through the open side vents. I plan of leaving the old fridge outside vents open for the new compressor fridge venting and ease of access to the condenser for cleaning.

600 Watt Microwave Replacement to Run Off Our 1000 Watt Inverter

 

We do use the RV microwave quite often but doesn’t like the idea of running the generator just for few minutes of MW use. There also times that we refrain from running the genset so not to upset our camp neighbors, especially early in the morning/ late at night or during no-generator times at campgrounds.

Right after the installation of our new Magnum MMS1012inverter/ charger (see this post) I started on replacing the factory installed microwave/convection oven with a smaller 600 watt microwave I got from Amazon (600-watt Westinghouse Counter Top Microwave). The microwave works really well with the Magnum MMS1012 PSW inverter; it draws around 950 watts. I can heat up a cup of water in less than 2 minutes. The MW outlet was rewired to the inverter output at the GFCI outlet located above the sink. 

Magnum MMS1012 PSW Inverter Upgrade and Lifeline AGM Batteries Replacement

 

Our 2011 RT Agile came with a Tripp Lite 750 watt inverter/charger from the factory. It works ok for the most part, but the built-in charger has limited charge parameter setting especially for AGM battery which we had.

The factory installed coach batteries (US Battery AGM2000) lasted us about 6 years, until it was “cooked” by the Tripp Lite charger during our recent summer roadtrip. I was able to temporarily replace it with a Walmart battery the following day, and that saved us the rest of the trip.

Overhead LED Lightning Conversion plus LED Mood/ Party Light Combo



The interior fluorescents lights were actually converted to white LED’s a few years back and the Wi-Fi/ BT/ RF controlled RGB LED mood lights were added recently. Both LED lights are independently controlled and can be switch on at the same time for extra brightness.

Parts used: (Amazon product links)

• WiFi/ RF/ Bluetooth LED Strip Controller
• 4 Color RBG Extension Cable Line
• RBG LED Strip Lights SMD 5050
• 12 volt inline Fuse Holder

Optional SMD 5050 white LED light panel: Search Amazon

Fixing the Drippy Bathroom Faucet in our Agile

Our bathroom faucet started leaking around the handle so I decided to disassemble the faucet to see what’s causing the leak. Here is how I did it.

First turn the water pump off, then open the faucet to release the water pressure. Remove the handle lever. The handle is held by a single screw hidden under the red/blue plastic plug. Using a mini screw driver or something pointy, remove the red/blue plastic plug on top of the faucet handle.

DIY Hitch Cargo Carrier and Side Mounted Hitch Receiver for Roadtrek Agile

Agile's Continental spare tire carrier location prevents the use of hitch cargo and bike carriers without any modifications. I've seen people use hitch extensions to clear the spare tire carrier, but this defeats the purpose of buying the shorter Agile not to mention its considerable influence in dynamic loading of the rear suspension over bumps and other road changes. Hitch baskets and bike racks mounted towards the rear of the spare tire also prevents the spare tire carrier to be folded down when needed.

I fabricated an extra hitch receiver that bolts-on into the right side of the factory hitch arm; it can accommodate medium sized hitch cargo carries/basket.  I will be fabricating a hitch cargo/bike carrier combo that swings to the side for easier access to the rear of the RV. For now, I'm using a small fabricated hitch cargo carrier for small loads like firewood/ ice cooler/ tool box, etc.

The receiver tube is a Harbor Freight tube cut short, and then welded to the fabricated bracket.

Automatic RV Hot Water Recirculation System

To minimize waste of water while waiting for the hot water in the sink or shower to come through, I installed a DIY automatic hot water recirculation system in my Agile. I can also use it to prevent the water line from freezing when camping below freezing temperature. I'm already thinking of re-plumbing the hot water line under the RV to provide heat into the fresh and holding tanks via a DIY heat transfer plates which will be installed under each tanks. A manual diverter valve will be used to divert hot water away from the heat transfer plates when it is not needed, that would be my near future project.

The DIY hot water recirculation system is installed into the galley faucet hot and cold water line which is the point farthest from the water heater. It is fully automatic with manual switch override. A digital temperature controller is used to switch the pump on and off to automatically recirculate hot water back into the cold water line. The adjustable fan-control thermostat switch (see below) monitors the water temperature in the water heater tank and the system only becomes active when set temperature is achieved. It will shut the system off when water temperature falls below the set temp, doing this will prevent the recirculation pump to continuously run when water heater is shut-off and hot water falls below a certain temp.

Hot water recirculation system wiring diagram.

120- Volt Electric Conversion to Suburban Gas Water Heater

Warning: The post below is for informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement or recommendation to modify your water heater and other products mentioned here. I will not be liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, or consequential damages or personal injury that may result from following this blog post.

I recently installed an aftermarket 120-volt electric heater element to my Suburban gas water heater. This mod should help cut my water heater propane usage when shore power is available. I opted for the "Lightning Rod" brand as it is the only electric conversion unit with built-in anode rod. Suburban does recommend using an anode rod in their porcelain lined steel tank for corrosion protection. Although the anode that came with the electric conversion is a lot smaller than the OEM anode rod, it is still a better option than no anode at all with the competing aftermarket products. I'm not sure how well the small anode will last or perform. I will update this post after a few months of water heater use.

RV Exterior Hand Held Hose/ Showerhead Replacement with Magnetic Pin Mount

I finally replaced my bulky, leaky, hard to store exterior showerhead and hose attachment. Found a small showerhead with built-in shut-off lever on Amazon along with a very flexible stainless steel hose, a shower pin wall mount (optional) and a pin mount swivel connector. Actually, the pin wall mount/ swivel connector was salvaged from an old showerhead I had, but it is available on Amazon (clickable Amazon links above).

Replacement is pretty straightforward, just unscrew the old hose and the showerhead then attach the new ones in place. I just made one minor modification to the new showerhead by drilling a bigger hole into the water saver valve (located on the water inlet of the showerhead) as the water flow is weak and restricted by the smaller hole.



The new hose is very flexible and really easy to store, unlike the factory hose which is a pain to store into the storage compartment, just coil the new hose about 3x and the door will close with ease.

Battery Separator Upgrade to Blue Sea ML-ACR 7622 Automatic Charging Relay

My Roadtrek originally came equipped with the Sure Power Battery Separator Model 1315-200, a 200-amp solenoid version. While the separator functioned properly, it drew approximately 1.5 amps when the solenoid was energized, resulting in a significant loss of solar energy.

I decided to replace it with the Blue Sea ML-ACR Model 7622, a 500-amp magnetic latching (bi-stable) automatic charging relay featuring manual and remote control capabilities. Although it comes with a higher price tag of around $200 USD, the investment has proven worthwhile for me. According to the manufacturer, it draws very low current (<40mA to monitor terminal voltage) in both the "ON" and "OFF" states, with a moderate current draw for a very short duration during state transitions.

The Blue Sea ML-ACR is dual-sensing, detecting charge levels on both batteries. It also includes a start and engine isolation feature, though I opted not to utilize those functionalities. With the addition of the remote switch, I can manually isolate and combine batteries from the driver's seat. Typically, I leave it in auto mode and only switch it off (isolate) when the house battery is charging from solar panels.

For most applications, the more affordable 120-amp continuous rated Blue Sea SI-ACR should suffice for alternator charging.

The replacement process is quite straightforward, using the same wiring as the old Sure Power isolator. The ML-ACR terminal studs for the batteries are interchangeable, eliminating the need to trace which wire goes to the start battery or house battery. I only had to run three new wires (red remote, red [+], and yellow LED wire) to the remote switch, which I mounted on the dashboard next to the headlight selector switch. Additionally, I slightly enlarged the ring terminal holes on the [+] cables as the ML-ACR terminal studs are slightly larger (size 3/8") than the old isolator. If preferred, you can also change the ring terminals on the [+] cables at this point.

Blue Sea ML-ACR automatic charging relay wiring diagram.

Permanently Mounted Bullseye Level for RV Leveling

I bought an inexpensive bullseye level from eBay which I found to be pretty accurate comparing to my other levels and couple of Android apps. If you prefer, a T-level like this from Amazon (Camco 25543 T Level ) should also work ok. I decided to permanently mount the bullseye level on the driver seat base right uppermost corner. I picked this mounting location for easy visualization from the driver seat which makes it easy to instantly check RV "levelness" while parking or when finding a level ground on campsites and during RV leveling using my Andersen Camper levelers.

The bullseye level mounting bracket is fabricated from aluminum angle bar/ flat bar, and a recycled mini tripod head. With the tripod head, I can zero/recalibrate the level at my convenience. To zero the bullseye level, I use a second bullseye level placed on the bottom of the RV freezer compartment then drove the RV to a level ground, with the bubble level on the freezer reading zero, I adjusted the other level with the bubble at dead center.

DIY Rear Table Swivel Adapter/ Roadtrek Rear Table Modification

Getting in and out of the rear table has been a problem for us, there is barely enough room to move around it. You literally have to suck your guts in to squeeze through around the table. Moving the tabletop base further off-center is not an option for me as it will put too much strain on the tabletop, not to mention the modification needed for its storage. The tabletop also doubles a bed platform and cannot be modified or shortened.

My solution is to modify the table leg and adding a swiveling arm. The swivel arm will add 6-inches off-set of the tabletop from the center pole and allows the table to easily swivel out of the way if needed. It only needs few materials which are readily available at your local home improvement store but it does involve some metal welding/fabricating.

The rear table swing-away adapter.