Mounting Starlink Mini on NCV3 Sprinter Dashboard

After brainstorming a variety of ways to mount the Starlink Mini on my Sprinter’s dashboard, I had two main goals: keep the dish securely in place during travel and make it easy to remove for repositioning—especially when the dashboard view is blocked by trees or other obstructions.

Finding the Right Spot

The center dashboard cubby turned out to be the ideal location. To fit the Starlink dish, I first removed the partial cover of the cubby. Once that was out, the dish slotted in like it belonged there—almost as if the space was designed for it. Even better, it sits low and blends in with the dashboard, giving it a sleek, factory-installed appearance. This subtlety also helps deter unwanted attention from potential thieves.

Short video showcasing the Starlink Mini with Magnetic Dashboard Mount.

Things you need:

• Starlink Mini
• Silicone Mini Protective Cover Case for Starlink Mini 
• Starlink Mini 12V Adapter Step Up Converter with DC Power Cable 12V/24V to 30V 3.5A
• Starlink Mini 3D printable Low Profile Magnet Mount (credit to HMITCHR)
• Rubber Coated Anti-Scratch Mounting Magnets

Creating a Secure and Removable Mount

For mounting, I went with a custom magnetic solution—strong enough to hold the dish during travel but easy to remove when needed. I removed the radio dash trim panels to access the bolts securing the cubby, which revealed a sturdy metal support beam beneath it. For instructions on removing the center dash trims, see this earlier post – click here.

Luckily, the beam already had two holes in just the right spots. I only had to slightly enlarge them to fit 1/4"-20 rivnuts. 

There’s also a wire—possibly an antenna cable—running across the top of the support beam. I had to carefully reposition it to the side to avoid pinching it when bolting down the cubby tray.

Since the metal beam sits about 1/4" lower than the cubby’s plastic bottom supports, I 3D-printed a spacer to make everything level. Be sure to use heat-resistant filament, as the dashboard can get extremely hot. I use ASA, and it holds up well under direct summer heat on the dash.

I mounted a boost voltage regulator to one of the support beam’s bolts on the driver’s side and tapped DC power from a coach battery-powered fuse box I previously installed under the dash.

The Starlink Mini accepts a DC input range of 12–48V and requires at least 12V to operate. I chose to run it at 30V DC, matching the output of the included AC power adapter. If you're using a long power cable, it's best to supply at least 24V to compensate for voltage drop.  

I also added a switch to power the Starlink on and off as needed, which helps conserve energy.

Building the Mounting Plate

Next, I fabricated a metal baseplate for the dish’s magnets to attach to. I added two centered guide rings to the plate to help align the rubber-coated magnets and prevent them from shifting during transit. After powder-coating the metal plate for corrosion resistance, I secured it to the cubby tray using double-sided tape and bolted it into the newly installed rivnuts.

To make alignment effortless, I 3D-printed plastic spacers around the magnet guide rings. These prevent the magnets from sticking to the rings themselves and help keep the mount centered.

There's also enough space in the cubby beneath the dish to store all the Starlink accessories neatly.

Wiring and Clean Cable Management

The power cable from the voltage regulator passes through a hole I drilled in the cubby tray. A 3D-printed clamshell-style grommet keeps the cable secure and prevents it from falling through. The grommet has enough play to let me push or pull the cable to adjust its length as needed.

Mounting the Dish

I used a 3D-printed snap-on mounting plate that attaches to the underside of the Starlink Mini, similar to the factory mounts. Three rubber-coated magnets are bolted to this snap plate, making the whole setup sturdy and easy to remove. The dish snaps into the metal baseplate cleanly, holding strong even on rough roads.

To reduce windshield glare and protect the dish, I first tried a silicone cover with a black vinyl front sticker. Unfortunately, the vinyl bubbled from sun exposure and made the dish too hot. 

I later switched to a better silicone cover with a raised honeycomb design underneath. The air gaps help reduce heat buildup by minimizing contact with the dish surface.

Final Thoughts

From outside the van, the dish looks like a factory component and doesn’t draw attention—aside from the cracked windshield, which I promise to address soon 😄.

Even when partially obstructed by trees, the Starlink performs surprisingly well. I can monitor signal strength or adjust settings via the Starlink app, which I run directly on my Android head unit. The magnetic mount makes repositioning a breeze if I ever need a clearer view of the sky.